How to Make Your Own Wrist and Ankle Weights

  • 01 of 05

    What You Need to Make Your Own Wrist or Ankle Weights

    Completed wrist weight made with these instructions
    Debbie Colgrove / The Spruce

    Wrist and ankle weights can be used for exercise or physical therapy. Often you will want different sizes and weights, which can end up costing more than you want to spend. Now you can make these weights for your wrists and ankles in the weight you want. Adjust the measurements used in this pattern by lengthening the fabric and webbing to meet your needs.

    Materials Needed for One Pair of Weights

    • 4 pieces fabric (tightly woven cotton or woven nylon) cut to 13 inches by 5 inches. Using rotary cutting tools can guarantee squared results.
    • 1 yard (1-inch wide) webbing
    • 2 (1-inch diameter) D-rings or rectangle hardware
    • 2 (6-inches long) sections hook-and-loop tape (Velcro)
    • Rice, BB's, sand, or similar material to provide weight. You will need two quantities of the weight you want each weight to be. A food scale works great for measuring the quantity you want. When using rice or sand, fill each section to the very top and hand baste the sections closed for a 1-pound wrist/ankle weight. For additional weight, you might need to add width to the fabric pieces.
    • Quality thread
    Continue to 2 of 5 below.
  • 02 of 05

    The Straps

    A picture of sewn straps
    The Spruce / Debbie Colgrove
    1. Cut the webbing into 2 (18-inch) sections. 
    2. Carefully melt the ends of the sections to prevent the webbing from fraying and unraveling.
    3. Fold over 1 inch on one end of each webbing section.
    4. Place a ring in the fold.
    5. Refold the 1 inch over, and sew down the end of the strap to itself.
    6. Starting at the opposite end of the webbing, you must center the hook tape and then the loop tape. Sew the hook-and-loop tape in place by sewing the edges of both sections and where they join.
    7. On two sections of fabric, find the center of the length of the strap (the center of the 5-inch measurement along the 13-inch area).
    8. Measure in and mark 1 1/2 inches in from each 5-inch edge in the center of the fabric. 
    9. Place the fold of the webbing on the 1 1/2-inch mark and the center of the length of the strip.
    10. Pin in place.
    11. Sew the webbing in place by sewing where the folded section is sewn, down the length of the webbing, across the 1 1/2-inch-end mark and back to the folded sewn section and then across where you started. Backstitch to secure your stitching.
    Continue to 3 of 5 below.
  • 03 of 05

    Seams

    Sewn seams
    Sewn seams with a hand turning under an edge. The Spruce / Debbie Colgrove
    1. Place an unsewn section of fabric on a section with the webbing attached, right sides together. Pin the webbing in the center so that it does not get caught in the seam.
    2. Sew both 5-inch edges and one (13-inch) edge using a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
    3. Turn the unsewn edge under 1/2 inch all the way around the edge.
    4. Turn right sides out and make sure all corners and seams are pushed to the exact edge.
    5. Match the top pressed-under edges of the unsewn edge.
    6. Top stitch as close to the edge as possible on all of the seamed edges. Do not sew the strap.
    7. Press well.
    Continue to 4 of 5 below.
  • 04 of 05

    Edges and Sections

    Edges and sections on an ankle or wrist weight
    The Spruce / Debbie Colgrove
    1. Top stitch as close to the edge as possible on all of the seamed edges. Do not sew the strap.
    2. Find the center of the length of the strip and mark it.
    3. Find the center of each half and mark them.
    4. Sew a line of stitching from the folded-under edge to the opposite seamed edge. Backstitch to secure the stitching.
    Continue to 5 of 5 below.
  • 05 of 05

    Fill and Close Sections

    Filling the sections and closing the weights
    The Spruce / Debbie Colgrove
    1. Divide your desired weights into four even sections and fill each section of the ankle/wrist weight.
    2. Move the weights to the sewn seam as much as possible, away from the folded edge.
    3. Align the pressed-under edges.
    4. Stitch the unsewn edge to close the openings, sewing as close to the edge as possible.