01 of 05
What You Need to Make Your Own Wrist or Ankle Weights
Exercising, weight loss, walking, and physical therapy all can go hand in hand to improve your overall health. Often, once you get into a routine, a missed day of exercise can leave you dragging.
But, equipment necessary for a good workout can start to drain the bank account, especially when you have to buy several sizes to get the right fit.
Now you can make these weights for your wrists and ankles in the weight you desire. Adjust the measurements used in this pattern by lengthening the fabric... and webbing to meet your needs.
Materials Needed for One Pair of Weights
Continue to 2 of 5 below.
- 4 pieces fabric (tightly woven cotton, woven nylon) cut to 13x5 inches wide. Using rotary cutting tools can guarantee squared results.
- 1 yard (1-inch-wide) webbing
- 2 (1-inch) D-rings or rectangle hardware
- 2 (6-inch) sections hook-and-loop tape (Velcro)
- Rice, BBs, sand or similar material to provide weight. You will need two quantities of the weight you want each weight to be. (A food scale works great for measuring the quantity you want.) When using rice or sand, filling each section to the very top and hand basting the sections closed will give you a 1-pound wrist/ankle weight. For additional weight, you might need to add width to the fabric pieces.
- Quality thread
02 of 05
Continue to 3 of 5 below.
- Cut the webbing into 2 (18-inch) sections.
- Carefully melt the ends of the sections to prevent the webbing from fraying and unraveling.
- Fold over 1 inch on one end of each webbing section.
- Place a ring in the fold.
- Refold the 1 inch over, and sew down the end of the strap to itself.
- Starting at the opposite end of the webbing, you must center the hook tape and then the loop tape. Sew the hook-and-loop tape in place by sewing the edges of both sections and where they join.
- On 2 sections of fabric find... the center of the length of the strap (the center of the 5-inch measurement along the 13-inch area).
- Measure in and mark 1 1/2 inches in from each 5-inch edge in the center of the fabric.
- Place the fold of the webbing on the 1 1/2-inch mark and the center of the length of the strip.
- Pin in place.
- Sew the webbing in place by sewing where the folded section is sewn, down the length of the webbing, across the 1 1/2-inch-end mark and back to the folded sewn section and then across where you started. Backstitch to secure your stitching.
03 of 05
Continue to 4 of 5 below.
- Place an unsewn section of fabric on a section with the webbing attached, right sides together. Pin the webbing in the center so that it does not get caught in the seam.
- Sew both 5-inch edges and 1 (13-inch) edge using a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
- Turn the unsewn edge under 1/2-inch all the way around the edge.
- Turn right sides out and make sure all corners and seams are pushed to the exact edge.
- Match the top pressed-under edges of the unsewn edge.
- Top stitch, as close to the edge as possible, on all... of the seamed edges. (Don't sew the strap.)
- Press well.
04 of 05
Edges and Sections
Continue to 5 of 5 below.
- Top stitch, as close to the edge as possible, on all of the seamed edges. (Don't sew the strap.)
- Find the center of the length of the strip and mark it.
- Find the center of each half and mark them.
- Sew a line of stitching from the folded-under edge to the opposite seamed edge. Backstitch to secure the stitching.
05 of 05
Fill and Close Sections
- Divide your desired weights into four even sections and fill each section of the ankle/wrist weight.
- Move the weights to the sewn seam as much as possible, away from the folded edge.
- Align the pressed-under edges.
- Stitch the unsewn edge to close the openings, sewing as close to the edge as possible.