How to Make Your Own Wrist and Ankle Weights

DIY wrist or ankle weight

 The Spruce / Debbie Colgrove

  • Total Time: 2 hrs
  • Yield: Pair of weights
  • Skill Level: Beginner
  • Estimated Cost: $20

Wrist and ankle weights can be used for many types of exercises. And you'll often want different sizes of weights, which can end up costing you a lot of money. So instead of buying pre-made weights, you can learn to make your own. With DIY wrist and ankle weights, you can select exactly the weight you need and fit them to the wearer by adjusting the measurements of the fabric and webbing as needed. This project, which creates a matching pair of weights, is suitable for beginner sewers and should take a couple hours to complete.

What You'll Need

Equipment / Tools

  • Scissors
  • Measuring tape
  • Scale
  • Hot knife tool or candle
  • Sewing machine
  • Pins
  • Iron and ironing board


  • 4 pieces tightly woven cotton or woven nylon, cut to 13 inches by 5 inches
  • 1 yard 1-inch-wide webbing
  • 2 1-inch-diameter D-rings or rectangle hardware
  • 2 6-inch sections hook-and-loop tape (Velcro)
  • Rice, sand, or similar material to provide weight
  • Quality thread


  1. Make the Straps

    Cut the webbing into two 18-inch sections. Carefully melt the ends of the sections with a hot knife tool or candle flame to prevent the webbing from fraying and unraveling.

    Fold over 1 inch on one end of each webbing section. Place a ring in the fold. Then, refold the 1 inch, and sew down the end of the strap to itself.

    Starting at the opposite end of the webbing, center the hook tape and then the loop tape. Sew the hook-and-loop tape in place by stitching the edges of both sections and where they join.

    On two pieces of your fabric, find the center of the length of the strap (the center of the 5-inch measurement along the 13-inch area). Measure and mark 1 1/2 inches in from each 5-inch edge in the center of the fabric. 

    Next, place the fold of the webbing on the 1 1/2-inch mark and the center of the length of the strip. Pin in place. Sew the webbing in place by stitching where the folded section is sewn, down the length of the webbing, across the 1 1/2-inch end mark, back to the folded sewn section, and then across where you started. Backstitch to secure your stitching.

    sewn weight straps
    The Spruce / Debbie Colgrove
  2. Stitch the Edges

    Place an unsewn piece of fabric on a piece with the webbing attached, right sides together. Pin the webbing in the center, so it does not get caught in the seam. Sew both 5-inch edges and one 13-inch edge using a 1/2-inch seam allowance.

    Fold the unsewn edge under 1/2 inch all the way around the edge. Turn right sides out, and make sure all corners and seams are pushed to the edge.

    Then, match the top pressed-under edges of the unsewn edge. Top stitch as close to the edge as possible on all of the seamed edges. Do not sew the strap. Press well.

    Repeat with the other two fabric pieces.

    Sewn seams
    The Spruce / Debbie Colgrove
  3. Stitch the Sections

    Find the center of the length of the strap, and mark it. Then, find the center of each half, and mark them. Sew a line of stitching from the folded-under edge to the opposite seamed edge. Backstitch to secure the stitching.

    Repeat this process on the other weight.

    Edges and sections on an ankle or wrist weight
    The Spruce / Debbie Colgrove
  4. Fill and Close the Sections

    Measure the weighted material to get your preferred amount for each weight. Then, divide the amount for one weight into four even portions. A food scale can be helpful to get a precise measurement. Fill each section of the ankle/wrist weight.

    Move the weighted material to the sewn seam as much as possible, away from the folded edge. Align the pressed-under edges. Then, stitch the unsewn edge to close it, sewing as close to the edge as possible.

    Repeat on the other weight.

    Filling the sections and closing the weights
    The Spruce / Debbie Colgrove