These simple toe-up socks are a great way to learn the techniques needed for toe-up sock knitting. Worked in the round, they're nothing but knits, with no pesky stitch patterns to track. Pick a fun self-striping sock yarn, and you can let the colors create the patterning. It feels like they go faster than cuff-down socks, and because you can try them on at every stage, they are sure to fit perfectly.
Sizing / Finished Measurements
Designed to fit the average woman's foot.
Circumference: 8 inches
Foot Length: 9 inches
Leg Length: 7 inches
30 stitches and 44 rounds = 4 inches in Stockinette stitch worked in the round.
- dpn(s) = double-pointed needle(s)
- k = knit
- k2tog = knit 2 sts together as one
- kfb = knit through front and back loop of same stitch
- p = purl
- rep = repeat
- rnd(s) = round(s)
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- [ ] = repeat instructions within brackets as directed
Socks are worked in the round on double-pointed needles from toe to cuff. You may wish to review the kfb increase before beginning.
Equipment / Tools
- US 1 (2.25 mm) double-pointed knitting needles
- Yarn or tapestry needle
- 270 yard fingering weight sock yarn
Beginning with three dpns and using the Turkish cast-on, cast on 16 sts.
Rnd 1: *kfb, knit to last st on needle, kfb; rep from * on second needle—4 sts increased.
Rnd 2: knit.
Adding dpns when it becomes difficult to work on just two, rep these two rnds until there are 60 sts, keeping the increases above one another so they line up all the way along the toe.1:51
Watch Now: How to Knit in the Front and Back
Work even in Stockinette stitch until piece measures 7 inches, or about 2 inches shorter than desired foot length.
If you used more or fewer stitches on your sock, adjust the short rows. Start with half your stitches, work wraps on 2/3 of the stitches, leaving 1/3 in the middle unwrapped.
Begin by putting 30 stitches onto one needle for the heel flap, and 15 on each of two other needles for the instep. You will work back and forth on just the flap stitches to shape the heel.
Row 1 (RS): knit to the last st, wrap and turn (w&t).
Row 2 (WS): purl to last st, w&t.
Row 3: knit to 1 st before last wrapped st, w&t.
Row 4: purl to 1 st before last wrapped st, w&t.
Working one fewer stitch on each side, rep last two rows until 10 stitches have been wrapped on each end, 10 unwrapped stitches in the middle.
Next row (RS): knit to the first wrapped stitch, lift the wrap from the near side and work it together with the stitch it wraps; turn the work.
Next row: purl to the first wrapped stitch, lift the wrap from the far side and work it together with the stitch it wraps; turn the work.
Continue in this manner, working one more stitch each row and working the wraps and stitches together as you go, until you've worked across all the sts, ending on a RS row.
When working the wrap together with the stitch, insert the needle under just one strand of the wrap, then into the stitch as usual. The goal when working the two together is for the wrap to end up on the inside of the sock, invisible from the right side.
Rejoin with stitches on other needles and continue working in the round from this point for the leg of the sock.
All rounds: [k2, p2] 15 times.
Rep last rnd for 1 inch.
Bind off loosely. Try a really stretchy bind off technique to make sure top of cuff won't be too tight for your legs. Weave in ends.