Sew a Tote Bag With a Recessed Zipper

Materials

• 1 1/4 yards of 60" wide fabric (2 yards for a one-way design or with nap fabric)
• 1-yard lining fabric
• 1- 22" purse zipper
• 60" of 1"-2" wide webbing for straps
• Optional - Interfacing to stiffen fabric

Cutting Instructions

• Cut two 24" X 21" rectangles - front and back of bag
• Cut two 3" X 24" - zipper sections
• Cut two 6" X 32 1/2" - sides and bottom of bag

For Lining

• Cut two - 3" X 24" - zipper section lining
• Cut two - 18" X 24" - front and back lining
• Cut two - 6" X 30 1/2" - sides and bottom of bag lining

• Place the zipper right side down on a 24" edge of one of the 3" X 24" pieces, aligning the edge of the zipper with the edge of the fabric.
• Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew the zipper tape to the fabric.
• Repeat using the other 3" X 24" piece on the opposite zipper tape.
• Place the right side of a lining piece on the zipper, sandwiching the zipper between the fabrics and sew the lining to the fabric with a 1/4" seam allowance.
• Repeat for the lining on the second side of the zipper.
• Sew a seam finish to the sewn edges.
• Press the zipper tape flat, pressing both layers of fabric away from the zipper.
• Top stitch the edge of the pressed edge to hold the fabric in place away from the zipper.
• Baste the edges of the fabric and lining together.

• Place wrong sides together matching one set of the 6" ends of the 6" X 32 1/2" pieces.
• Sew using a 1/2" seam allowance.
• Apply a seam finish.
• Press the seam to one side.
• Top stitch the seam to the body of the fabric.

• Placing the right sides together, match the seam of the sides/bottom piece to the center of the bottom of the bag front or back.
• Pin the bottom in place.
• At the corners, clip the bottom/sides piece and align the edges to the top edge. Pin in place.
• Sew the bottom/side piece to the front/back piece using 1/2" seam allowance.
• Apply a seam finish.
• Repeat for the other front/back piece.

• Pin the top of the bag together.
• Measure and mark 3" from the top of the bag.
• Cut the top of the bag at the 3" mark.

• Match the seams of the top piece that was cut off the bag, with the corners of the zipper section.
• Sew them together using a 1/2" seam allowance. Clip at the corners where necessary to turn the corners.
• Apply a seam finish to the seam.

• Assemble the body of the bag lining the same way the body of the bag was constructed in step 4.
• Place the lining in the body of the bag with the wrong sides of the fabrics together.
• Match the seams and baste the top edges together.

• On the front and back of the bag, measure in 5" from the side seams.
• Pin the straps in place.
• Sew the straps multiple times to the body of the bag, inside the 1/2" seam allowance.

• Open the zipper on the zipper section.
• Place the bag through the zipper, keeping the right sides of the fabric together.
• Align the seams and reattach the fabric that was cut off the top, which now has the zipper attached.

• Fold the top right sides out, folding the top of the bag into the bag on the seam line.
• Press so the seam line is the top edge of the bag.
• Top stitch the top of the bag, 1/2" from the folded seam line.