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Basic Pointers for making bound buttonholes
- A perfect bound buttonhole is rectangular and no wider then 1/4", unless you are working with fabric that is exceptionally thick or bulky. This would make each side of the inset no wider then 1/8".
- If you are making a series of these buttonholes it is best to make each step on each buttonhole before moving on to the next step.
- When machine sewing, do not back stitch. It usually results in an unperfect rectangle.
- Always use interfacing or underlining on the garment fabric to provide stability.
- To practice making bound buttonhole and "get the hang of it", try making larger then normal buttonholes. Practice on scraps until you feel confident.
Continue to 2 of 8 below. - A perfect bound buttonhole is rectangular and no wider then 1/4", unless you are working with fabric that is exceptionally thick or bulky. This would make each side of the inset no wider then 1/8".
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Markings For A Bound Buttonhole
Fully mark your button hole placement. Use a running stitch of hand basting or a marking pencil on the interfacing, that will not show through.Mark the following:
- Center of garment
- Buttonhole placements
- 1/8" on each side of buttonhole
- Ends of buttonholes
Continue to 3 of 8 below. -
Starting the Buttonhole
- Make a patch of the fabric which will compose the inside lips of the buttonhole. Make the patch on the straight grain of the fabric. The patch should measure 2 inches wider and 1 inch longer then the buttonhole.
- Place the patch right sides together, centered over the buttonhole. Hand baste around the edge of the patch, to hold it in place.
- Stitch using very small stitches along the rectangle lines.
Continue to 4 of 8 below. - Make a patch of the fabric which will compose the inside lips of the buttonhole. Make the patch on the straight grain of the fabric. The patch should measure 2 inches wider and 1 inch longer then the buttonhole.
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Machine Sewing & Lining
- With right side up,fold the right side back to expose the slit and original stitches. Stitch directly on these stitches.
- Repeat for the other side of the buttonhole.
- Working from the right side, fold back the ends, to expose the triangle of slit fabric. Tug back as far as possible, and stitch on original stitches. * Repeat for the other end of the buttonhole.
- Press
- Sew an identical rectangle as you marked on the fabric layer, but just in a layer of lining.
- Slit as you did the buttonhole and fold back all fabric to the stitches.
- Hand stitch the lining into place around the buttonhole.
- With right side up,fold the right side back to expose the slit and original stitches. Stitch directly on these stitches.