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Materials for a Beaded Tennis Bracelet
You'll need the following beads and supplies to make one bracelet that is about 7 inches long, including the beaded clasp.
Note: If you have trouble locating any of the exact colors we used, select similar colors or experiment with your own palette. There are hundreds of gorgeous colors of seed beads and CzechMates available.
- About 26 CzechMates beads in opaque green luster (A)
- About 54 size 11/0 Miyuki round seed beads in crystal color-lined beige; I.D. 110401 (B)
- About 54 Toho short (3mm) magatamas in Hybrid frosted opal apollo (C)
- One faceted 6mm by 8mm Chinese crystal rondelle in amethyst (D)
The bold capital letters above are the bead key for this pattern.
Resources: We ordered our CzechMates from BelloModo. We purchased our round seed beads from U Bead It. The opal apollo magatamas can be harder to find (We purchased mine wholesale). You might check Etsy or select a different color from BelloModo. Look for Chinese crystal beads on Etsy or Antie's Beads.
Use your kit of essential beadweaving supplies for this project. For beading thread, we used 4-pound FireLine in crystal. We used a size 12 beading needle and a thread burner to trim off the final thread tails.
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Start Stringing the CzechMate Bracelet
Cut about 8 feet of beading thread and thread your needle for single-strand beadweaving. (If you use FireLine or other polypropylene thread, be sure to use children's craft scissors, wire cutters, or a hobby knife to make the cut instead of beading scissors.)
After pouring out small piles of the beads onto your beading mat (or into a bead dish), use the needle to pick up 3B, 1A, and 3B.
Slide those beads down to about 2 feet from the end of the thread.
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Use a Half Knot to Maintain Thread Tension
While holding the beads between your fingers, reverse direction and pass down through the empty hole in the A and through the first set of 3B again. Pull the thread taut. Be sure to pull the thread slowly so that it doesn't tangle.
Tie a simple half knot (which is just the first step in a square knot) with both ends of the thread and cinch it down close the beads. This knot helps to keeps the tension taut.
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Reposition the Thread
Pass through the first hole in the A again (in the same direction you did the first time), up through all of the second of 3B, and back through the second hole in the A. Pull the thread taut again. (Please remember that you can click on the image for a larger view.)Continue to 5 of 17 below.
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Complete the Stitch
Pass through the 3B that run along the bottom of the A, and then up through the second hole in the A. Pull the thread taut again. This repositions the thread for the next stitch.Continue to 9 of 17 below.
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Reinforce the Clasp and Weave-In the Thread
Weave through all of the beads in the clasp end again for reinforcement, and then weave the thread into the beadwork, following the path of existing thread. Make several half-hitch knots over existing thread along the way.Continue to 13 of 17 below.
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Trim Off the Thread
Trim the thread close to the beadwork. In the photo on the left, we're burning through the thread with a thread burner.
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Check the Loop Size
Pass back through the 1C and pull the thread to create a beaded loop. Use your finger and thumb to pinch the thread beneath the 1C, and test the loop to make sure that it slides over the crystal bead on the other end of the bracelet. It should be a close enough fit to keep the clasp latched, but not so tight that you'll have difficulty latching it.
If you need to adjust the size of the loop by adding or subtracting Bs, remove the needle and pull the thread thread back out of the 1C. Make the adjustment, and then test the loop again.
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Complete the Loop End of the Clasp
Pick up 2B, and then pass up through the nearest hole in the first A in the band. Pull the thread taut, and then weave-in and trim off the thread the same way you did for the crystal end of the clasp.Continue to 17 of 17 below.
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