A Free Crochet Pattern for a Beaded Cell Phone Holder

Beaded Crochet Cell Phone Holder
Beaded Crochet Cell Phone Holder. Photo © Amy Solovay, Licensed to About.com, Inc.

Beaded Crochet Cell Phone Holder – Project Introduction

Enjoy this free crochet pattern for a beaded cell phone holder. The cell phone holder is sized for the Apple iPhone 3GS or other similar smartphones. You could also use it to hold other types of gadgets if you prefer.

Supplies Needed

  • Crochet Thread: 1 ball of size 3 mercerized cotton crochet thread; I used about 24 grams of Coffee-colored Royale Fashion crochet thread to make the sample cell phone holder. Feel free to use any similar crochet thread.
  • Beads: There are 256 6/0 seed beads in the sample cell phone holder. Yours may require more beads, or fewer, depending on how you crochet. The seed beads used in my sample are by Blue Moon Beads.
  • Crochet Hook: Size E / 4 - 3.5 mm, or size needed to obtain gauge
  • Closure: You'll need a length of ribbon, braid, cord or similar material to create the drawstring for the cell phone holder. If you use ribbon, you might also want to treat the cut edges with Fray Check or a similar substance.
  • Needles: You'll need needles for stringing your beads onto your crochet thread, stitching your cell phone holder together, and weaving in ends.


Working in beaded pattern, 6 sts = approximately 1"; row gauge is not critical for success with this project.

Finished Size

My finished cell phone holder measures 7.25” x 3.25”

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern:


Dc, ch 1, dc, all worked in the same stitch.

Design Notes

You’ll work the cell phone holder in two pieces—the back and the front. Then you stitch the two pieces together. Next, you crochet the casing for the drawstring; this is worked in rounds around the top of the piece. The edging, which is also worked around the top, is the finishing touch.

Beadwork Pattern for Body of Cell Phone Holder

  • String your beads onto your crochet thread.
  • Ch 17 loosely.
  • Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each st across. (16 sc)
  • Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc, [slide a bead close to the last stitch made, 2 sc.] Repeat the instructions in brackets 6 more times across the row. Slide bead, sc. (At the end of the row, you’ll have 16 sc and 8 beads total.)
  • Row 3: Ch 1, turn, work 16 sc sts across the row.
  • Row 4: Ch 1, turn, [2 sc, slide a bead close to the last stitch made.] Repeat the instructions in brackets all the way across the row. (16 sc and 7 beads total)
  • Row 5: Sc all the way across the row.
  • Rows 2-5 rows form the pattern repeat. Repeat rows 2-5 as many times as needed until the piece is long enough to accommodate your cell phone. I worked 35 rows for my sample. Your number of rows may vary.

Outside Round

  • This is a partial round; you'll work around 3 of the 4 sides of your piece.
  • Ch 1, work 35 evenly spaced sc down the side of the piece. Ch 2 for corner, then work 16 evenly spaced sc across starting chain. Ch 2 for corner, work 3 evenly spaced sc up the other side of the piece.
  • End off. Weave in all ends. Note that it is much easier to weave in the ends before you join the pieces, so be sure not to leave them all until the end.
  • Make two identical pieces using the above instructions.

Joining the Two Pieces of the Cell Phone Holder

Join the two pieces using whichever method you prefer; you can either sew them or crochet them together. My sample project was joined using a slip stitch join. I crocheted a slip stitch through both pieces, working down one side, across the bottom, and up the other side. You could seam the pieces using whip stitch if you prefer.

Crocheting the Casing for the Drawstring, and the Edging:

  • Work this part in rounds around the top of the piece.
  • Join thread in upper right-hand corner.
  • Round 1A: Ch 3, (counts as first dc,) work 1 dc in each st all the way around.
  • When you get to the side seams, you can either skip them, or work two stitches into each seam, depending on how bulky your seams ended up being. If you have really bulky seams, skipping over them would leave a big gap; in that case, you want to go ahead and work those extra stitches into each seam. You don’t want to have big gaps in your casing.
  • The seams on my sample project are quite bulky, so I worked the extra stitches into each seam.
  • Whichever way you decide to do it, keep in mind that your total number of stitches needs to be evenly divisible by 4 to make the math on the edging work out correctly.
  • When you’ve worked all the way around, join with a sl st to the first dc in the round.
  • End off; weave in ends.
  • Round 1B: Work into the same round to make an upper layer, but this time around, work into the front loops of the sts. Join thread at top right hand side in front loop of the same round; ch 3 (counts as first dc st.) Work 6 more dcs. Ch 3 and skip next 3 front loops; this forms the opening for the drawstring. Continue working dcs into front loops all the way around. Sl st to join to the first dc.
  • Position the ribbon or drawstring in between the two rounds of dc sts. Feed the ends out through the hole formed by the ch-3 space.
  • Round 2: Work through both loops of both layers of the casing made in rounds 1A and 1B. Ch 1, work sc all the way around, keeping the drawstring sandwiched in between the layers of the casing. Join with a sl st.
  • Round 3: Ch 1, sc all the way around, sl st to join.
  • Round 4: Ch 4 (1st 3 chs count as 1 dc st,) dc into same st to complete a V-Stitch, [ch 1, skip next 3 sts, work a V-Stitch in next st.] Repeat sequence in brackets all the way around. sl st to join to 3rd ch st crocheted at the beginning of the round.
  • Round 5: [Work 5 sc in next V-Stitch, sl st in next ch.] Repeat sequence in brackets all the way around. Join the end of the round to the beginning of the round with a sl st.
  • Round 6: Ch 1, In each grouping of 5 sc, work the sequence in brackets: ([2 sc, ch 3, skip next sc, 2 sc.] Then sl st in next sl st.) Repeat sequence in parentheses all the way around. Sl st to join to beginning of the round.
  • End off. Weave in all ends.

Blocking (or Not Blocking) the Beaded Cell Phone Holder

I didn't bother with blocking my finished cell phone holder; it didn't need it.

While I was crocheting it, the pieces did distort a bit. If your pieces bias or distort an alarming amount, you might wish to block them before you join them; that could make it easier to stitch them together. Hopefully, you won't need to do that though. My pieces evened out just fine when I joined them.

Don't block this project unless you used beads that can get wet. Some metal beads might rust, and some cheaper beads might lose their coating if you wet them. When in doubt, test a single unworked bead to see what will happen if you wet it.

You can now place your cell phone inside the cell phone holder, or give it as a gift. Enjoy!